Beautiful day at Sunset Beach. Crystal clear blue water and clean conditions. 12'-15' by standard measure, 6'-8' Hawaiian. One of those … [Read more...] about Drop at Sunset
Talk story
Embracing Brazilian Surfing
Standing at the water’s edge at the 2014 Pipe Masters watching dozens – possibly hundreds – of Brazilians chanting, dancing, screaming, waving flags, … [Read more...] about Embracing Brazilian Surfing
Getting Recycled
We’re all (or most of us) are familiar with the following diagram, concept, identification, and actual navigation of a rip current: There’s a … [Read more...] about Getting Recycled
Love You Long Time Lani
December 5th, one month into the trip, starting to settle in. Bought a red 96 Ford Ranger manual transmission beater the week before and have been … [Read more...] about Love You Long Time Lani
A Few Good Moves
Imagine, you’re a top-tier sponsored grom on a major brand label or stoked to have really good connections here, you would get right off the plane and … [Read more...] about A Few Good Moves