Beautiful day at Sunset Beach. Crystal clear blue water and clean conditions. Not too big but not small (for me at least) either. 12'-15' by … [Read more...] about Drop at Sunset
Travel
Embracing Brazilian Surfing
Standing at the water’s edge at the 2014 Pipe Masters watching dozens – possibly hundreds – of Brazilians chanting, dancing, screaming, waving flags, … [Read more...] about Embracing Brazilian Surfing
Getting Recycled
We’re all (or most of us) are familiar with the following diagram, concept, identification, and actual navigation of a rip current: There’s a … [Read more...] about Getting Recycled
Love You Long Time Lani
December 5th, one month into the trip, starting to settle in. Bought a red 96 Ford Ranger manual transmission beater the week before and have been … [Read more...] about Love You Long Time Lani
“Surf Smart, Surf Longer”
Woke up one-day last week and checked the surf reports in the morning, everywhere said fading swell all day. Walked up and saw a few dudes busting … [Read more...] about “Surf Smart, Surf Longer”