
In the first 10 days I’ve made a few observations on the North Shore:
- Everybody is super fit. If you’re not Hawaiian, or in top shape, you’re an easy mark as a weak link in the lineup.
- The whole vibe is raw. Military Jets, choppers, and big Coast guard planes circle the island coastline periodically 24/7 which gives it a combat feel.
- Pay phones are still found all over the place.
- Smoking cigarettes/cigars in public are illegal. This is awesome.
- Lifeguards are CONSTANTLY making rescues and/or preventing oblivious tourists from drowning.
- Nobody uses the same wave height scale and it’s confusing.
- Surf forecasts have a hard time getting it right and you’ve just got to be aware.
- Every spot has protocols that must be learned. How to get in, how to get out, where are the peekaboo rocks, etc.
- When there is nobody out at a certain break that looks fun, there’s probably a good reason for this.
If your dreams don’t scare you, you’re not dreaming big enough.
Mahalos,
A.B.
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