The first few days were pretty massive, getting settled, and looking for good boards.
The swell drops down few days later and looks super fun. Still pretty big but fun looking.
Surfing an Aristotle 5’9″- didn’t wait long before going straight out into the lineup, without much resistance.
Got outside and check my bearings and look around at the 3 other guys out. They look like they know what they are doing and they’re all on guns and I’m thinking how big is it out here?
The first wave that comes, I whip around and scratched into it. Not bad. Board is a little small, but works.
That one turned out to be a small one for the day (pictured above) and I spent the rest of the session being selective taking medium-sized ones with a nice taper down to the shoulder.
The guys on the big boards were dropping in behind the peak and getting slotted.
With the small board, I just couldn’t get the paddling speed to get the waves from the peak. Though I’m sure that some guys would’ve been on tiny boards air dropping into the tube from under the lip.
If your dreams don’t scare you, you’re not dreaming big enough.
Mahalos,
A.B.
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