Woke up one-day last week and checked the surf reports in the morning, everywhere said fading swell all day.
Walked up and saw a few dudes busting airs in some playful waves. Walked home, grabbed my shortboard, and walked straight back to the break. 30ish minutes from the time I checked the surf until the time I got back.
As soon as I laid eyes on the surf for the second time, I see a set breaking on the second reef that catches my attention.
It’s got to be big for the second reef to break. Then I noticed that the wind had changed direction and is gusting out of the North…
Now it’s non-stop serious surf, just dangerous.
Rip currents, side shore currents, backwash, you name it. It went from what I would call a foot overhead on the sets to 18′-25′ faces (pictured above) in what seemed like a blink of an eye. Super thankful I was not out surfing when this happened.
As I’m walking home defeated, a salty old surf dog collecting seashells in his mid-to-late 50’s bends my ear with a raspy voice:
“That’s some dangerous shit out there son. You had better have some big balls and bigger lungs to surf in that kind of shit. No, not me son. Not since I died surfing out there.”
“Yea man I was out at Rockpiles (also pictured above) on a day much like today and it went from 3-5 feet and fun to 20 feet plus all the sudden. I had to catch one in and it was a 20 footer with a tiny six foot barrel. Lip was so thick, I tried to pull through and it slammed me on the bottom. Broke my shoulder and a few ribs and held me under for four waves. Lifeguards said they were lucky to even find me. They brought me back to life on the beach and that’s the first thing I remember after standing up on that wave.”
Me: Holy shit.
“Yea son this place is no joke, I’ve been here for 30 years and I don’t fuck around out surfing here no more. I just mind surf the shit out of it haha. Have you felt how strong that side shore current is ripping down the beach?”
“Well you just make sure that if you want to surf here for a long time, you have to surf smart. Where are you from son?”
“Well I won’t hold that against ya ha! I’m an old schooler from the Wedge in California. Just remember son, here it’s all about longevity. Surf smart, surf longer!”